Chicken
Pho

Blanch the chicken

Place the whole chicken and the backs or wings in your largest pot. Cover with cold water and bring to a rolling boil. Boil for 3-4 minutes -- a grey foam will rise to the surface. Drain, rinse each piece thoroughly under cold running water, and clean the pot. This step clears the broth and removes any off-flavours from the skin and blood.

Char the onion and ginger

Place the halved onion and ginger cut-side-down over a gas flame, under a broiler, or in a dry cast iron pan over high heat. Char until deeply blackened on the cut surface -- about 5 minutes per side. This is less aggressive than for beef pho but still essential. The char contributes sweetness and the characteristic golden colour. Shake off the very worst of the black but leave most of it.

Toast the spices

In a dry frying pan over medium heat, toast the star anise, cinnamon, cloves, coriander seeds, and fennel (if using) for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Stir frequently and do not walk away. Transfer to a muslin sachet or cheesecloth square tied with string.

Build the broth

Return all the blanched chicken to the clean pot. Add the charred onion and ginger. Cover with 3 litres of fresh cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to the lowest simmer -- gentle bubbles only. Add the spice sachet. Skim the surface frequently in the first 20 minutes.

Unlike beef pho, do not leave chicken pho unattended for hours at high heat. A vigorous boil will cloud and tighten the broth. Keep it gentle throughout.

Poach the chicken -- and remove it early

The whole chicken will be fully cooked in 45-60 minutes. Test by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a skewer -- the juices should run clear and the meat should pull away easily. Remove the whole chicken and let it cool enough to handle. The wings and backs stay in the pot for the full simmer.

Once cool, pull the meat from the whole chicken by hand into large pieces. Cover and refrigerate until assembly. The carcass goes back into the broth for the remainder of the simmer.

Strain and season

Strain the broth through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot. Discard the carcass, bones, onion, ginger, and spice sachet. The broth should be clear and pale golden.

Season with fish sauce one tablespoon at a time, tasting after each addition. Add rock sugar. Chicken broth needs less salt than beef -- it has a natural sweetness. Season gently, then taste again when hot.

Prepare the noodles

Soak the dried banh pho in cold water for 30 minutes if not already done. They should be pliable and nearly translucent. Bring a separate pot of plain water to a rolling boil. Cook the soaked noodles in batches -- one portion at a time in a wire basket or strainer -- for 1-2 minutes until just tender. Drain immediately.

Warm the chicken

Briefly dip the shredded chicken into the hot broth for 30 seconds to warm through. Do not overcook it -- it just needs to be heated, not cooked further. Drain and set aside. This also seasons the chicken lightly from the broth.

Bring the broth to a vigorous boil

The broth must be boiling when it goes into the bowl. Taste once more and adjust fish sauce or salt as needed. Chicken broth flavour shifts slightly as it sits -- check seasoning just before serving.

Build the bowl

Place a portion of hot noodles in a warmed bowl. Arrange the shredded chicken generously on top. Ladle boiling broth over everything -- enough to submerge the noodles. Finish with thinly sliced spring onion and a pinch of white pepper if you like.

Serve the herb plate alongside

Arrange the bean sprouts, Thai basil, culantro, sliced chili, and lime wedges on a separate plate. Put hoisin and sriracha on the table. Serve immediately.